Hemingway in Madrid

Visit Madrid with a field study course.

Explore the streets of Madrid that haunt the pages of some of Hemingway’s greatest works. Learn about Hemingway's time in Madrid and his passion for bullfighting, sensuous delights, and man's capacity for dignity in danger and defeat. You will visit the cafes, bars, hotels, and restaurants that he used as settings in novels such as The Sun Also Rises and For Whom the Bell Tolls. Madrid’s unique atmosphere permeates Hemingway’s stories and literary masterpieces. 

Topics include:

  • Hemingway's love for Spain, Madrid, and the Spanish culture
  • Developing an understanding of paintings that inspired Hemingway, such as Picasso’s famous Guernica
  • The significance of the Las Ventas bullring and its museum
  • The impact of news reporting during the Spanish Civil War
  • How Hemingway fired Orson Wells and narrated the Spanish Civil War film, The Spanish Earth
  • Explore the importance of Henares, Toledo, and El Escorial
  • Find out about the Prado and Reina Sofia museums

May apply toward upper-level credit for the English major, humanities major, arts and humanities general education requirements, or electives.

Faculty member: joe.naas@faculty.umgc.edu


"Bullfighting is the only art in which the artist is in danger of death and in which the degree of 
brilliance in the performance is left to the fighter's honor."


Tentative Course Itinerary

Pre-Course and Week 1

You will gain access to the online LEO classroom approximately 1 week prior to the start of the course. The official course start date is 1 March 2020. Once you gain access to the classroom, take a virtual walk-through of the course and begin reading assignments.

* All times are approximate

Sunday, Day 1

 Arrival in Madrid and check-in at hotel

Introductory lecture and orientation

Walking tour

Monday, Day 2

1000-1200Walk to Plaza Santa Ana
1300-1400Tour of Cervezeria Alemania
1400-1700Tour of Plaza del Sol

Tuesday, Day 3

0900-1000Lecture on The Sun Also Rises and discussion
 Site visit to Plaza Mayor
 Tour of other Hemingway haunt: Palace Hotel to Plaza Mayor

Wednesday, Day 4

0900-1000Lecture and discussion of Madrid scenes from For Whom the Bell Tolls
 Visit to Plaza de Callao and the site of former Hotel Florida, where E.H. stayed during the Civil War
 Visit to La Venencia Bar on Calle Echegary
 Tour of Reina Sofia Museum and "Guernica"
 Site visit to Telefonica Building on Gran Via

Thursday, Day 5

0900-1000Lectures and short stories about the influence of Spanish visual arts on Hemingway
 Site visit to the Prado Museum (Museo Nacional del Prado)

Friday, Day 6

0900-1000Lecture on Death in the Afternoon
 Site visits to:
 Las Ventas Plaza de Toros
 Hotel Reina Victoria at Plaza Santa Ana
 Los Gabrieles on Calle Echegaray
(Tour of cellular and portraits of toreros)
 Taberna de Antonin Sanchez on Calle Meson de Paredes
 La Torre del Oro in Plaza Mayor

Saturday, Day 7

0900-1000Lecture on three decades: 20s, 30s, and 50s
 Site visits to:
 Museo Chicote on Gran Via
 Hotel Tryp Gran Via
 Restaurante Botin

Sunday, Day 8

0900-1000Final lecture
 Circle tour
1200Conclusion and departure

Accommodation and Transportation

For your convenience, UMGC coordinates the hotel and excursion arrangements for a flat fee of $650 per student per field study course. This fee will be charged to your student account and covers seven nights of lodging (double occupancy room), as well as local transportation costs and entry to all excursions.

The $650 fee does not include travel to and from the city where the course is held. You must make your own travel arrangements to the course. The fee also does not include meals.

Textbooks and Course Materials

Please refer to the current course syllabus found on the schedule for details about course materials. This course uses no-cost online resources.

Registration Details

You may register for the 3 credit field study course with your local program coordinator or online at MyUMGC. Tuition assistance or financial aid can be applied toward tuition costs. For more information, contact the UMGC Field Study Office at CIV +49-(0)631-534-800, or e-mail fieldstudies-europe@umgc.edu.

Before completing your travel plans, please verify with your local program coordinator or the Field Study Office at UMGC Europe Headquarters that the course will be held as scheduled. If you drop/withdraw from a field study course after the registration deadline, you will be charged a fee of $100.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

How is a field study course different from a regular course?
A field study course packs all of the 48 contact-hours of other courses into seven adventure-filled days on location, so you can earn three credits in 4 weeks. In addition, rather than taking place in an education center, a field study course takes place in a historical European city where the subject being studied has its roots. You will visit historical sites and museums as well as participate in lectures that bring it all together for a one-of-a-kind learning experience.

The on-site portion of field study courses are also scheduled during registration weeks, so they shouldn't interfere with your other courses.

For more information, please visit the Field Study Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) page.

Helpful Hints

Before you leave:

  • Contact your travel agency concerning insurance coverage for cancellations.
  • Contact your health insurance company for information concerning coverage at your destination.
  • Familiarize yourself with local laws and customs of your destination country.
  • Check the weather forecast for your destination.
  • Obtain city maps for your destination.
  • Leave contact information with people at home who may need to reach you during the course.
  • Make sure your legal affairs are in order and leave a short-term power of attorney with someone you trust.
  • Make two photocopies of your passport and the contents of your wallet--leave one copy at home, and bring the other with you.

For more information, please visit the Field Study Resources page.